{"id":163,"date":"2018-01-26T18:50:31","date_gmt":"2018-01-26T17:50:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/wordpress\/kucharka\/?p=163"},"modified":"2023-11-30T01:04:13","modified_gmt":"2023-11-30T00:04:13","slug":"kouzlo-pana-maillarda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/kouzlo-pana-maillarda\/","title":{"rendered":"Kouzlo pana Maillarda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Tohle v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011b nen\u00ed recept, ale trochu obecn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvek \u2013 ov\u0161em t\u00fdk\u00e1 se jedn\u00e9 z nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edch kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch informac\u00ed, kter\u00e1 t\u0159eba mn\u011b z\u016fstala po dlouh\u00e1 l\u00e9ta utajen\u00e1 a p\u0159itom by ji m\u011bl zatracen\u011b dob\u0159e zn\u00e1t ka\u017ed\u00fd, kdo t\u0159eba jen projde kolem spor\u00e1ku. Kouzlo, kter\u00e9 se jmenuje Maillardova reakce<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Technick\u00e1 str\u00e1nka a v\u011bdeck\u00e9 teorie te\u010f nejsou d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 \u2013 kdo chce, m\u016f\u017ee si koneckonc\u016f o Maillardov\u011b reakci<\/em> naj\u00edt v\u0161echny dostupn\u00e9 odborn\u00e9 informace <\/a>\u2013 podstatn\u00e1 je praktick\u00e1 str\u00e1nka. Jde o v\u011bc, kterou vlastn\u011b v\u0161ichni v\u00edme, ale m\u00e1lokdo o n\u00ed n\u011bjak v\u00edc p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00ed: p\u0159i ur\u010dit\u00e9 teplot\u011b za\u010dnou potraviny hn\u011bdnout a n\u011bjak v\u00edc von\u011bt. A to, co se s nimi d\u011bje, je pr\u00e1v\u011b Maillardova reakce<\/em>. Tou teplotou, kdy se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 n\u011bco podstatn\u00e9ho d\u00edt, je n\u011bco mezi 140\u2013160 \u00b0C (podle typu surovin a jejich vz\u00e1jemn\u00e9ho p\u016fsoben\u00ed). Stra\u0161n\u011b slo\u017eit\u00fdm chemick\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem mezi sebou za\u010dnou reagovat cukry a b\u00edlkoviny a zcela z\u00e1sadn\u011b zm\u011bn\u00ed v\u0161echny hlavn\u00ed charakteristiky potraviny, kter\u00e9 dok\u00e1\u017eeme vn\u00edmat \u2013 barvu, v\u016fni, chu\u0165, strukturu. P\u016fvodn\u011b sv\u011btl\u00e9 suroviny ztmavnou, rozvon\u00ed se, zm\u011bn\u00ed chu\u0165, ztvrdnou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

V\u00fdsledkem Maillardovy reakce<\/em> je k\u016frka na chlebu, k\u0159upav\u00e9 pe\u010divo nebo hranolky, v\u016fn\u011b a chu\u0165 pra\u017een\u00e9 k\u00e1vy nebo popcornu, ope\u010den\u00fd povrch steaku. Je to d\u016fvod, pro\u010d sma\u017een\u00e1 vaj\u00ed\u010dka a ope\u010den\u00e1 cibulka chutnaj\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b jinak ne\u017e va\u0159en\u00e1 vaj\u00ed\u010dka a va\u0159en\u00e1 cibule. Je to k\u0159upav\u00e1 k\u016f\u017ei\u010dka na pe\u010den\u00e9m ku\u0159eti, je to v\u016fn\u011b \u010derstv\u011b upe\u010den\u00e9 pizzy nebo pra\u017een\u00fd je\u010dmen a chu\u0165, kterou p\u0159ed\u00e1v\u00e1 pivu nebo whisky. A spousta a spousta dal\u0161\u00edch dobrot, kter\u00e9 m\u00e1me r\u00e1di. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Potraviny pro\u0161l\u00e9 Maillardovou reakc\u00ed<\/em> jsou pln\u00e9 v\u016fn\u00ed a chut\u00ed a ka\u017ed\u00fd kucha\u0159 se jich v\u011bdom\u011b \u010di nev\u011bdomky sna\u017e\u00ed neust\u00e1le dos\u00e1hnout. Pro\u010d se vlastn\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1 skoro do ka\u017ed\u00e9ho z\u00e1kladu om\u00e1\u010dky cibule, pro\u010d se sek\u00e1 na drobn\u00e9 kosti\u010dky a op\u00e9k\u00e1 se v\u00edce \u010di m\u00e9n\u011b dohn\u011bda na n\u011bjak\u00e9m tuku? Inu, pr\u00e1v\u011b kv\u016fli t\u00e9to reakci. Cibule pro tyto \u00fa\u010dely funguje nadm\u00edru dob\u0159e, m\u00e1 po ope\u010den\u00ed nav\u00edc p\u0159\u00edjemnou sladkou chu\u0165. Na co nejmen\u0161\u00ed kosti\u010dky ji kr\u00e1j\u00edme proto, aby vznikl co nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed povrch, kter\u00fd se d\u00e1 op\u00e9ct a na kter\u00e9m pota\u017emo Maillardovou reakc\u00ed<\/em> vznikne nov\u00e1, lep\u0161\u00ed cibule, kter\u00e1 d\u00e1 spoustu chuti budouc\u00ed om\u00e1\u010dce. A tuk se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 proto, \u017ee narozd\u00edl od vody um\u00ed dos\u00e1hnout t\u00e9 po\u017eadovan\u00e9 teploty kolem 150 \u00b0C, kdy se tato reakce spou\u0161t\u00ed. Jde to pravda i bez tuku, ale proto\u017ee mezi p\u00e1nv\u00ed a potravinou chyb\u00ed vodi\u010d tepla (vzduch je vodi\u010d prachmizern\u00fd), m\u00edste\u010dka v p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9m kontaktu s rozp\u00e1len\u00fdm dnem n\u00e1doby se rychle ope\u010dou a za\u010dnou p\u00e1lit, a ostatn\u00ed, kter\u00e1 jsou t\u0159eba jen p\u016fl milimetru ve vzduchu, se neoh\u0159ej\u00ed dostate\u010dn\u011b a k reakci tam t\u0159eba ani nedojde. Olej nebo jin\u00fd tuk tady slou\u017e\u00ed hlavn\u011b jako vodi\u010d tepla, aby se co nejv\u00edce povrchu potraviny zah\u0159\u00edvalo co nejrovnom\u011brn\u011bji. Teplota p\u00e1nve kolem 150 stup\u0148\u016f, tuk k ide\u00e1ln\u00edmu rozveden\u00ed tepla, co nejmen\u0161\u00ed kosti\u010dky k dosa\u017een\u00ed co nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed plochy \u2013 v\u0161e v podstat\u011b vymy\u0161leno k tomu, abychom Maillardovou reakc\u00ed<\/em> prom\u011bnili co nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed objem cibule.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Takov\u00fdto ope\u010den\u00fd povrch potravin se dob\u0159e rozpou\u0161t\u00ed ve vod\u011b a d\u00e1v\u00e1 tekutin\u011b jedine\u010dnou a \u017e\u00e1douc\u00ed chu\u0165. Je to to, co d\u011bl\u00e1 v\u00fdvar pln\u00fd a mnohem chutn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu z masa a om\u00e1\u010dky siln\u00e9 a pln\u00e9 intenzivn\u00ed chuti. Takov\u00fd tradi\u010dn\u00ed \u010desk\u00fd gul\u00e1\u0161<\/a> je na tom zalo\u017een\u00fd cel\u00fd: jeho tmav\u00e1 barva a siln\u00e1 chu\u0165 vznikaj\u00ed doveden\u00edm Maillardovy reakce<\/em> ad absurdum \u2013 pou\u017eit\u00edm na v\u0161echny dostupn\u00e9 suroviny, v maxim\u00e1ln\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9 m\u00ed\u0159e, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 na hranici \u00fanosnosti. Cibulku je t\u0159eba op\u00e9ct do tmavohn\u011bda, maso co nejv\u00edc osma\u017eit, op\u00e9ct i ko\u0159en\u00ed, co nejv\u00edc zkaramelizovat tro\u0161ku rajsk\u00e9ho protlaku, mouku do j\u00ed\u0161ky a je\u0161t\u011b po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b o\u0161krabat a odva\u0159it v\u0161echno p\u0159ipe\u010den\u00e9 ze dna \u2013 prost\u011b dostat ze surovin maximum zmaillardovan\u00e9<\/em> hmoty, a tu d\u016fkladn\u011b rozpustit ve vod\u011b. Jen t\u00edm vznikne om\u00e1\u010dka siln\u00e1 jako noha od kule\u010dn\u00edku a opravdu dobr\u00fd gul\u00e1\u0161.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm \u00faskal\u00edm t\u00e9to reakce je plynul\u00fd a n\u011bkdy i velmi rychl\u00fd p\u0159echod potraviny do zuhelnat\u011bl\u00e9ho stavu. U\u017e p\u0159i teplot\u00e1ch kolem 140 \u00b0C bohu\u017eel vznikaj\u00ed i ne\u017e\u00e1douc\u00ed a\u017e rakovinotvorn\u00e9 l\u00e1tky a u vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch teplot se pak potravina \u00fapln\u011b p\u00e1l\u00ed a p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 b\u00fdt po\u017eivateln\u00e1. Sp\u00e1len\u00e1 surovina je prav\u00fdm opakem v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e9ho \u2013 je ho\u0159k\u00e1, nedobr\u00e1, nepo\u017eivateln\u00e1. A zdrav\u00ed nebezpe\u010dn\u00e1. Pat\u0159\u00ed mezi kucha\u0159sk\u00e9 um\u011bn\u00ed naj\u00edt spr\u00e1vn\u00fd moment, kdy cibule je\u0161t\u011b \u201ekaramelizuje\u201d a kdy u\u017e se p\u00e1l\u00ed. Takov\u00fd \u010desnek nebo \u010derven\u00e1 paprika (jako ko\u0159en\u00ed) se sp\u00e1l\u00ed ne\u017e sta\u010d\u00edte \u0159\u00edct Maillard<\/em>, zho\u0159knou a dok\u00e1\u017e\u00ed v\u00e1m zni\u010dit cel\u00fd hrnec j\u00eddla jedn\u00edm vrzem. Na to bacha a sna\u017eit se nikdy nic nesp\u00e1lit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Ale jinak se naopak sna\u017e\u00edme produkty Maillardovy reakce<\/em> zu\u017eitkovat do posledn\u00edho drobe\u010dku. V\u0161echno nape\u010den\u00e9 z hrnc\u016f, p\u00e1nv\u00ed a pek\u00e1\u010d\u016f chceme dostat do j\u00eddla a ne do my\u010dky. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed to jde obvykle velmi dob\u0159e technikou deglazov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/em> \u2013 sta\u010d\u00ed p\u0159ipe\u010deniny v hork\u00e9 p\u00e1nvi zal\u00edt vodou (nebo v\u00ednem \u010di v\u00fdvarem) a nejl\u00e9pe d\u0159ev\u011bnou \u0161pachtl\u00ed v\u0161echno ze dna se\u0161r\u00e1bat. Ve vod\u011b to dob\u0159e povol\u00ed a my spoj\u00edme p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 s u\u017eite\u010dn\u00fdm: m\u00e1me jak spoustu chuti, tak i o\u010di\u0161t\u011bnou p\u00e1nev.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Deglazov\u00e1n\u00ed p\u00e1nve<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kdykoli chceme do j\u00eddla dostat intenzivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165, je na m\u00edst\u011b nasadit dar p\u0159\u00edtele Maillarda<\/em>. Maso i zeleninu do v\u00fdvaru nejprve ope\u010deme ze v\u0161ech stran a teprve pak zalijeme vodou. Pokud d\u011bl\u00e1me v\u00fdvar t\u0159eba z ku\u0159ec\u00edch koster, lehce je pot\u0159eme tro\u0161kou oleje a vraz\u00edme na p\u016fl hodiny do rozp\u00e1len\u00e9 trouby. Zeleninu na kr\u00e9m nejprve zape\u010deme v troub\u011b nebo ope\u010deme na p\u00e1nvi. Zapomeneme na b\u00e1chorky o \u201ezatahov\u00e1n\u00ed masa\u201c p\u0159ed du\u0161en\u00edm, aby nepustilo \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu \u2013 maso pust\u00ed \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu \u00fapln\u011b stejn\u011b a\u0165 ho p\u0159edem ope\u010deme, nebo ne. Ve skute\u010dnosti se p\u0159ed du\u0161en\u00edm nesna\u017e\u00edme maso \u201ezat\u00e1hnout\u201d, ale hlavn\u011b dob\u0159e op\u00e9ct ze v\u0161ech stran, aby m\u011blo co nejv\u00edce zmaillardovan\u00e9ho<\/em> povrchu, kter\u00fd se pak rozpust\u00ed v om\u00e1\u010dce. Zeleninu i maso se budeme sna\u017eit kr\u00e1jet co nejv\u00edc na drobno (jak dan\u00fd recept dovol\u00ed) a co nejv\u00edc ho p\u0159edem op\u00e9ct ze v\u0161ech stran hezky dohn\u011bda. Pro intenzivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chu\u0165 tmav\u00fdch om\u00e1\u010dek a pol\u00e9vek se nebudeme b\u00e1t ud\u011blat po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b tmavou j\u00ed\u0161ku (ale fakt bacha, ke sp\u00e1len\u00ed je tady v\u017edycky jen kr\u016f\u010dek). N\u011bkdy to d\u016fkladn\u00e9 ope\u010den\u00ed z\u00e1kladu m\u016f\u017ee docela trvat, ale stoj\u00ed za to to vydr\u017eet, ten \u010das nav\u00edc se n\u00e1m stokr\u00e1t vr\u00e1t\u00ed v chuti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pozn.: Pan Louis Maillard byl Francouz, tak\u017ee se i vyslovoval po francouzsku: [maj\u00e1r]<\/em>. Pota\u017emo je to [maj\u00e1rova] <\/em>reakce.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tohle v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011b nen\u00ed recept, ale trochu obecn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edsp\u011bvek \u2013 ov\u0161em t\u00fdk\u00e1 se jedn\u00e9 z nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edch kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch informac\u00ed, kter\u00e1 t\u0159eba mn\u011b z\u016fstala po dlouh\u00e1 l\u00e9ta utajen\u00e1 a p\u0159itom by ji m\u011bl zatracen\u011b dob\u0159e zn\u00e1t ka\u017ed\u00fd, kdo t\u0159eba jen projde kolem spor\u00e1ku. Kouzlo, kter\u00e9 se jmenuje Maillardova reakce. Technick\u00e1 str\u00e1nka a v\u011bdeck\u00e9 teorie te\u010f nejsou d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 \u2013 kdo chce, m\u016f\u017ee si koneckonc\u016f o […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":178,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[22,27,28,34,37,43],"class_list":["post-163","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-obecne","tag-maso","tag-peceni","tag-pecivo","tag-smazeni","tag-technika","tag-zelenina"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=163"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":407,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/163\/revisions\/407"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/178"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=163"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=163"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=163"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}