{"id":253,"date":"2018-10-18T20:12:13","date_gmt":"2018-10-18T18:12:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/kucharka\/?p=253"},"modified":"2024-08-07T01:19:05","modified_gmt":"2024-08-06T23:19:05","slug":"svickova-na-smetane","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/svickova-na-smetane\/","title":{"rendered":"Sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 na smetan\u011b"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 je u n\u00e1s doma na \u0161pici nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00edch j\u00eddel. Dokonce vyhr\u00e1la i sout\u011b\u017e o novou verzi na\u0161\u00ed \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159e \u2013 \u010dasem jsme si ujasnili, \u017ee o kapra a bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t nikdo moc nestoj\u00edme, tak jsme zavedli jako novou tradici v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed sv\u00ed\u010dkovou a jsme spokojeni v\u0161ichni. Ono to ve skute\u010dnosti zas tak slo\u017eit\u00e9 j\u00eddlo nen\u00ed, ale m\u00e1 p\u00e1r z\u00e1drhel\u016f, na kter\u00e9 je pot\u0159eba si d\u00e1t pozor.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Maso.<\/strong> P\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm se \u010dlov\u011bk nesm\u00ed nechat zm\u00e1st t\u00edm, \u017ee se to jmenuje <em>sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1<\/em>, kdy\u017e se to z opravdov\u00e9 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 ned\u011bl\u00e1 \u2013 aspo\u0148 pokud nev\u00edte, co s prachama. Hov\u011bz\u00ed sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 (<em>sirloin<\/em>) je nejlep\u0161\u00ed a nejjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kus masa vhodn\u00fd na nejlep\u0161\u00ed steaky (<em>filet mignon<\/em>), na tatar\u00e1k, carpaccio apod. Je absolutn\u011b nevhodn\u00e1 pro n\u011bjakou dlouhou tepelnou \u00fapravu a u\u017e v\u016fbec ne pro du\u0161en\u00ed a pe\u010den\u00ed. Nemluv\u011b o tom, \u017ee sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 stoj\u00ed asi 4\u00d7 v\u00edc ne\u017e \u201eoby\u010dejn\u00e9\u201c hov\u011bz\u00ed, je to \u010dir\u00fd nesmysl. Pro tohle j\u00eddlo se tradi\u010dn\u011b pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 tzv. \u201efale\u0161n\u00e1 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1\u201d, co\u017e je tzv. <em>kulat\u00e1 plec<\/em> (p\u0159edn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st hov\u011bz\u00edho ramene, p\u0159ed <em>loupanou plec\u00ed<\/em>), p\u0159\u00edp. tzv. <em>v\u00e1le\u010dek<\/em> z k\u00fdty. Na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b zrovna tyhle dva kusy jsou to nejtu\u017e\u0161\u00ed maso z cel\u00e9 kr\u00e1vy a je v\u00e1\u017en\u011b kum\u0161t z n\u011bj uva\u0159it n\u011bco aspo\u0148 dob\u0159e kousateln\u00e9ho. Ka\u017edop\u00e1dn\u011b chceme maso, co se pe\u010den\u00edm nevysu\u0161\u00ed a bude se d\u00e1t dob\u0159e kr\u00e1jet p\u0159es vl\u00e1kno na pl\u00e1tky. Po mnoha zku\u0161enostech bych se neb\u00e1l zkou\u0161et cokoli jin\u00e9ho. Klidn\u011b steakov\u00e1 masa a \u00fapravy. Takov\u00fd <em>flank steak<\/em> (pupek), ud\u011blan\u00fd na grilu nebo sous vide a pak jen zprudka osma\u017een\u00fd na povrchu je se sv\u00ed\u010dkovou zase \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Pozn.: Je spousta alternativ, z \u010deho se taky d\u00e1 d\u011blat <em>sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 na smetan\u011b<\/em> \u2013 telec\u00ed, vep\u0159ov\u00e1 panenka, \u010dasto se takhle upravuje kr\u00e1l\u00edk a hlavn\u011b zv\u011b\u0159ina \u2013 t\u0159eba srn\u010d\u00ed sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 je skv\u011bl\u00e1!<\/p>\n<p><strong>Kombinace zeleniny.<\/strong> Z\u00e1kladem a podstatou chuti dobr\u00e9 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 je kombinace ko\u0159enov\u00e9 zeleniny. Bulva celeru (ne ten \u0159ap\u00edkat\u00fd), petr\u017eel nebo pastin\u00e1k (vypad\u00e1 podobn\u011b, ale je v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a slad\u0161\u00ed) a mrkev. Ide\u00e1ln\u011b kdy\u017e je od ka\u017ed\u00e9ho druhu stejn\u011b, jen mrkve o n\u011bco v\u00edc. Ale nesm\u00ed j\u00ed b\u00fdt moc, kdy\u017e je j\u00ed v\u00edc ne\u017e polovina, sv\u00ed\u010dkovou to dok\u00e1\u017ee zab\u00edt. Chceme sv\u00ed\u010dkovou, ne mrkvovou om\u00e1\u010dku. Nejlep\u0161\u00ed je koupit si zeleninu \u010derstvou a o\u010distit a nakr\u00e1jet si ji s\u00e1m, ale ch\u00e1pu, \u017ee n\u011bkdy \u010dlov\u011bk mus\u00ed vz\u00edt zavd\u011bk zeleninou mra\u017eenou.\u00a0Bohu\u017eel hotov\u00e9 sm\u011bsi v obchodech (bal\u00ed\u010dky nebo mra\u017een\u00e9) n\u011bkdy obsahuj\u00ed mrkve i mnohem v\u00edc ne\u017e polovinu, to je pak lep\u0161\u00ed p\u0159ikoupit je\u0161t\u011b t\u0159eba samotn\u00fd celer a petr\u017eel, pokud to jde, a nam\u00edchat to tak, aby t\u00e9 mrkve nebylo a\u017e moc.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ope\u010den\u00ed.<\/strong> Naprosto z\u00e1sadn\u00ed v\u011bc, bez kter\u00e9 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 bude chutnat jako zeleninov\u00e1 p\u0159esn\u00edd\u00e1vka pro mimina. Zelenina se mus\u00ed d\u016fkladn\u011b op\u00e9ct, do hn\u011bda, ka\u017ed\u00fd kousek, co to jen jde. V tom je zaklet\u00e1 ve\u0161ker\u00e1 chu\u0165 (v\u00edc vedle v <a href=\"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/kucharka\/2018\/01\/26\/kouzlo-pana-maillarda\/\">\u010dl\u00e1nku o kouzlech pana Maillarda<\/a>). Jsou dv\u011b mo\u017enosti: bu\u010f se zelenina d\u016fkladn\u011b prope\u010de v troub\u011b s masem a nemus\u00edte se o to starat, nebo se mus\u00ed op\u00e9ct na p\u00e1nvi. Ale bez toho to fakt nejde.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Smetana.<\/strong> Do sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 pat\u0159\u00ed po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e1 smetana, aspo\u0148 30%. Prod\u00e1v\u00e1 se jako smetana ke \u0161leh\u00e1n\u00ed, ne n\u011bjak\u00e1 10% \u201ena va\u0159en\u00ed\u201d. Om\u00e1\u010dka se smetanou je kr\u00e9mov\u00e1, hebk\u00e1 a lahodn\u00e1. Kdo \u0161et\u0159\u00ed na smetan\u011b, mus\u00ed hodn\u011b zahu\u0161\u0165ovat j\u00ed\u0161kou a dostane om\u00e1\u010dku hutnou, t\u011b\u017ekou a m\u00e9n\u011b chutnou. A pak to doh\u00e1n\u00ed kope\u010dkem \u0161leha\u010dky do tal\u00ed\u0159e \u2013 dobr\u00e1 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 se smetanou u\u017e \u017e\u00e1dnou dal\u0161\u00ed \u0161leha\u010dku nepot\u0159ebuje. <em>(A samostatn\u00e9 odd\u011blen\u00ed v pekle je pak pro v\u0161echny ty, co jsou do sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 schopni nast\u0159\u00edkat rostlinou \u201e\u0161leha\u010dku\u201c ve spreji. Kdykoli to n\u011bkdo ud\u011bl\u00e1, b\u016fh zabije ko\u0165\u00e1tko.)<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>Pom\u011bry.<\/strong> Zcela z\u00e1sadn\u00ed probl\u00e9m se v\u0161emi recepty. I ten sebelep\u0161\u00ed, co potk\u00e1te, prezentuje tohle j\u00eddlo jako <em>hov\u011bz\u00ed maso<\/em> podlit\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dkou a dopln\u011bn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edlohou. Kdy\u017e si najdete jakoukoli fotku sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9, kdy\u017e si zajdete do dobr\u00e9 restaurace na dobrou sv\u00ed\u010dkovou, uvid\u00edte v\u011bt\u0161inou tot\u00e9\u017e: kr\u00e1lem tal\u00ed\u0159e je to maso, om\u00e1\u010dka je dopln\u011bk, knedl\u00edk p\u0159\u00edloha. Jen\u017ee u n\u00e1s doma to tak holt nen\u00ed. Hrdinou tal\u00ed\u0159e je pro v\u0161echny ta om\u00e1\u010dka, knedl\u00edk je jej\u00ed nosi\u010d a maso v\u011bt\u0161inou nepodstatn\u00fd dopln\u011bk. A ka\u017ed\u00fd si om\u00e1\u010dky je\u0161t\u011b dvakr\u00e1t p\u0159id\u00e1. Tak to holt je. Om\u00e1\u010dky sn\u00edme kotel, maso by tam skoro ani nemuselo b\u00fdt. Ale nen\u00ed pro\u010d se t\u00edm tr\u00e1pit, p\u0159izp\u016fsobovat se sv\u011btu a tv\u00e1\u0159it se, \u017ee to d\u011bl\u00e1me blb\u011b, kdy\u017e n\u00e1m to tak vyhovuje. Mus\u00edme jen p\u0159izp\u016fsobit recepty sob\u011b a sv\u00fdm chut\u00edm a suroviny pro om\u00e1\u010dku holt n\u00e1sobit dvakr\u00e1t, t\u0159ikr\u00e1t. Pokud je v n\u011bjak\u00e9m receptu naps\u00e1no n\u011bco jako <em>\u201e\u010d\u00e1st zeleniny odebereme, om\u00e1\u010dka by byla p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 hust\u00e1\u201c<\/em>, tak se jen zasm\u011bjeme a zeleniny d\u00e1me dvakr\u00e1t tolik. A smetany. A p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b v\u00fdvaru.<\/p>\n<h2>Postup<\/h2>\n<p>Postupy na p\u0159\u00edpravu sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 jsou v podstat\u011b t\u0159i: pe\u010den\u00ed, du\u0161en\u00ed a sous-vide. Ka\u017ed\u00fd m\u00e1 n\u011bjak\u00e9 v\u00fdhody a nev\u00fdhody, ale ze v\u0161ech m\u016f\u017ee na konci vypadnout skv\u011bl\u00e1 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1, tak\u017ee z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed jen na na\u0161\u00ed volb\u011b.<\/p>\n<h3>Suroviny<\/h3>\n<p>Mno\u017estv\u00ed uv\u00e1d\u00edm sp\u00ed\u0161 jen kv\u016fli pom\u011br\u016fm, podle pot\u0159eby v\u0161echno n\u00e1sobte nebo d\u011blte.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>1 kg <strong>hov\u011bz\u00ed<\/strong> kulat\u00e9 plece (nebo viz v\u00fd\u0161e)<\/li>\n<li>300\u2013400 g <strong>celeru<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>300\u2013400 g <strong>petr\u017eele<\/strong> (nebo pastin\u00e1k)<\/li>\n<li>400\u2013600 g <strong>mrkve<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>1 v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed <strong>cibule<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong>divok\u00e9 ko\u0159en\u00ed<\/strong> \u2013 6 bobkov\u00fdch list\u016f, 10 kuli\u010dek nov\u00e9ho ko\u0159en\u00ed, 10 kuli\u010dek cel\u00e9ho pep\u0159e, p\u0159\u00edp. i tymi\u00e1n, rozmar\u00fdn. Sv\u00e1zat do pytl\u00ed\u010dku z g\u00e1zy nebo zav\u0159\u00edt do \u010dajov\u00e9ho s\u00edtka, aby se pak nemuselo lovit.<\/li>\n<li>500 ml <strong>smetany<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed suroviny se li\u0161\u00ed podle zvolen\u00e9ho postupu. Za\u010d\u00e1tek je ale v\u017edycky stejn\u00fd: sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 chutn\u00e1 nejl\u00edp, kdy\u017e maso nech\u00e1me odle\u017eet v chladu v nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 zelenin\u011b. Maso trochu zk\u0159ehne a hlavn\u011b nat\u00e1hne p\u0159\u00edjemnou charakteristickou v\u016fni a je ve fin\u00e1le mnohem lep\u0161\u00ed. Maso bychom m\u011bli p\u0159ed t\u00edm opep\u0159it (s\u016fl je\u0161t\u011b ne) a pokud nem\u00e1 moc kompaktn\u00ed tvar, tak je\u0161t\u011b pro jistotu st\u00e1hnout kuchy\u0148sk\u00fdm prov\u00e1zkem. Hodn\u011b lid\u00ed ned\u00e1 dopustit na pro\u0161pikov\u00e1n\u00ed masa slaninou, u n\u00e1s to nikdo moc nemus\u00ed, tak to ned\u011bl\u00e1m. Sp\u00ed\u0161 se sna\u017e\u00edm maso nevysu\u0161it a nechat ho dostate\u010dn\u011b \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9, aby \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd dodate\u010dn\u00fd \u0161pek nepot\u0159ebovalo.<\/p>\n<p>Celer, petr\u017eel a mrkev o\u010dist\u00edme a nakr\u00e1j\u00edme na kostky. Ne \u00fapln\u011b mal\u00e9, asi tak 1\u20132cm velk\u00e9, abychom pozd\u011bji dos\u00e1hli dobr\u00e9ho pom\u011bru mezi ope\u010den\u00fdm povrchem a \u0161\u0165avnatou udu\u0161enou hmotou uvnit\u0159 kousk\u016f zeleniny. Maso d\u00e1me do pek\u00e1\u010de, m\u00edsy nebo do s\u00e1\u010dku a pod n\u011bj i shora zasypeme nakr\u00e1jenou ko\u0159enovou zeleninou, zakryjeme poklic\u00ed nebo foli\u00ed a nech\u00e1me ule\u017eet v lednici. P\u0159es noc, ale klidn\u011b i den \u010di dva. Pokud nem\u00e1te \u010das nechat maso odle\u017eet aspo\u0148 n\u011bkolik hodin, vynechte tenhle krok \u00fapln\u011b, zas tak z\u00e1sadn\u00ed pro v\u00fdsledek nen\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-256 aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"653\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova2.jpg 3771w, https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova2-640x376.jpg 640w, https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova2-768x451.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova2-1200x705.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 653px) 100vw, 653px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Maso z lednice vyndejte aspo\u0148 hodinu p\u0159edem. Vyt\u00e1hn\u011bte ho\u00a0ze zeleniny, d\u016fkladn\u011b osolte a nechte odpo\u010d\u00edvat a trochu oh\u0159\u00e1t na pokojovou teplotu.<\/p>\n<p>Dal\u0161\u00ed kroky se u\u017e li\u0161\u00ed podle zvolen\u00e9ho postupu.<\/p>\n<h2>Pe\u010den\u00e1 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1<\/h2>\n<p>Nejsnaz\u0161\u00ed, nejm\u00e9n\u011b pracn\u00fd postup. Takhle d\u011blal sv\u00ed\u010dkovou t\u0159eba m\u016fj t\u00e1ta a j\u00e1 ji tak d\u011bl\u00e1val taky nej\u010dast\u011bji (ne\u017e jsem si po\u0159\u00eddil <em>sous-vide<\/em> ma\u0161inku). Osolen\u00e9 maso spolu s bal\u00ed\u010dkem ko\u0159en\u00ed vr\u00e1tit zp\u00e1tky do pek\u00e1\u010de pod zeleninu, p\u0159idat i nakr\u00e1jenou cibuli (sta\u010d\u00ed velmi nahrubo, t\u0159eba na kl\u00ednky), podl\u00edt asi p\u016fl hrnkem vody,. vrazit do trouby a pomalu a dlouho p\u00e9ct. \u0158ekn\u011bme tak t\u0159i hodiny na 160 \u00b0C. Ka\u017edou hodinu to chce zkontrolovat, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b prom\u00edchnout, kdyby se cht\u011blo n\u011bco napalovat u kraj\u016f. Kdy\u017e je to hotov\u00e9, maso je m\u011bkk\u00e9, ale ne vysu\u0161en\u00e9 a zelenina je hn\u011bd\u00e1, po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zkaramelizovan\u00e1 a von\u00ed to na cel\u00fd d\u016fm.<\/p>\n<p>Pak jen vyndat maso, odlo\u017eit n\u011bkam do tepla, ko\u0159en\u00ed vyhodit a zeleninu s v\u00fdpekem rozmixovat do om\u00e1\u010dky. T\u00e1ta se s t\u00edm nemazlil a jen to rozmixoval s ml\u00e9kem a nic v\u00edc \u2013 zelenina om\u00e1\u010dku dostate\u010dn\u011b zahustila a ml\u00e9ko bylo jako n\u00e1hra\u017eka m\u00edsto v\u00fdvaru a smetany. Pro\u010d ne, i tak byla skv\u011bl\u00e1. M\u00e1 to jen drobnou nev\u00fdhodu, \u017ee takov\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka se po n\u011bjak\u00e9 dob\u011b m\u016f\u017ee za\u010d\u00edt \u201erozpojovat\u201c. Emulze nen\u00ed dokonal\u00e1 a odd\u011bl\u00ed se voda. T\u0159eba kdy\u017e to bude v lednici do druh\u00e9ho dne. Sta\u010d\u00ed to sice jen po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zam\u00edchat nebo znovu trochu promixovat, ale p\u0159ece jen to rad\u011bji d\u011bl\u00e1m trochu solidn\u011bji \u2013 jedna varianta je z toho ml\u00e9ka ud\u011blat lehk\u00fd, velmi \u0159\u00eddk\u00fd <em>be\u0161amel<\/em> (tzn. na m\u00e1sle asi se l\u017e\u00edc\u00ed mouky ud\u011blat sv\u011btlou j\u00ed\u0161ku a zal\u00edt ml\u00e9kem). Nem\u00e1 to b\u00fdt hust\u00e9, ale mouka z j\u00ed\u0161ky pom\u016f\u017ee dobr\u00e9mu propojen\u00ed a om\u00e1\u010dka z\u016fstane kompaktn\u00ed.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>1,5 litru hov\u011bz\u00edho <strong>v\u00fdvaru<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>l\u017e\u00edce <strong>m\u00e1sla<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>l\u017e\u00edce <strong>mouky<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong>citronov\u00e1 \u0161\u0165\u00e1va<\/strong> (nebo dobr\u00fd ocet)<\/li>\n<li><strong>cukr<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong>s\u016fl<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Ale doporu\u010d\u00edm to ud\u011blat je\u0161t\u011b l\u00e9pe, jak to s\u00e1m d\u011bl\u00e1m nej\u010dast\u011bji: ud\u011blat nikoli <em>be\u0161amel<\/em>, ale <em>velout\u00e9<\/em>. Tedy prakticky tot\u00e9\u017e, ale m\u00edsto ml\u00e9ka se pou\u017eije hov\u011bz\u00ed v\u00fdvar. Konzistence je jako hust\u0161\u00ed pol\u00e9vka, kterou rozmixujeme spolu s tou zeleninou a v\u00fdpekem. Rozhodn\u011b mus\u00edte pou\u017e\u00edt dobr\u00fd v\u00fdvar, jen ne proboha instantn\u00ed bujon z kostky, ten by v\u00e1m chu\u0165ov\u011b celou vymazlenou sv\u00ed\u010dkovou \u00fapln\u011b zabil. Nezapome\u0148te z pek\u00e1\u010de vy\u0161krabat a vypl\u00e1chnout a p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b odva\u0159it v\u0161echnu nape\u010denou dobrotu, ve kter\u00e9 je hromada chuti (samoz\u0159ejm\u011b pokud to nen\u00ed p\u0159ip\u00e1len\u00e9 do \u010derna). Pokud chceme om\u00e1\u010dku opravdu hladkou, m\u016f\u017eeme ji je\u0161t\u011b propas\u00edrovat p\u0159es cedn\u00edk. Nech\u00e1me aspo\u0148 15 minut prova\u0159it.<\/p>\n<p>Potom, a\u0165 se om\u00e1\u010dka kompletovala tak nebo tak, je pot\u0159eba ji dochutit: podle pot\u0159eby sol\u00ed, citronovou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vou (nebo octem) a p\u0159\u00edp. cukrem. Nebojte se toho, sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 docela slu\u0161\u00ed trocha pikantn\u00ed sladkokyselosti. Ale je pot\u0159eba vyv\u00e1\u017eit oboj\u00ed, kysel\u00e9 i sladk\u00e9, aby se navz\u00e1jem vyrovnaly. Nechte je\u0161t\u011b chv\u00edli m\u00edrn\u011b va\u0159it (pokud pou\u017eijete ocet, tak d\u00e9le, pokud citron, tak nen\u00ed pot\u0159eba), a na posledn\u00edch p\u00e1r minut p\u0159idejte smetanu. Dob\u0159e zam\u00edchat, je\u0161t\u011b asi minutu pova\u0159it, odstavit a d\u00e1l u\u017e neva\u0159it. Opravdov\u00ed fajn\u0161mek\u0159i m\u016f\u017eou om\u00e1\u010dku je\u0161t\u011b zjemnit kouskem m\u00e1sla (ale u\u017e neva\u0159it) a p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b je\u0161t\u011b jednou promixovat a propas\u00edrovat.<\/p>\n<h2>Du\u0161en\u00e1 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1<\/h2>\n<p>Tohle je zase nejklasi\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed postup, kter\u00fd najdete ve v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b kucha\u0159ek a potk\u00e1te ve slu\u0161n\u00fdch restaurac\u00edch. Maso se dus\u00ed v zelenin\u011b na plotn\u011b a proto\u017ee se surovin\u00e1m nedostane dostate\u010dn\u00e9ho \u017e\u00e1ru, mus\u00ed se v\u0161e nejprve dob\u0159e op\u00e9ct, abychom z\u00edskali po\u017eadovanou chu\u0165.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>1,5\u20132 litry hov\u011bz\u00edho <strong>v\u00fdvaru<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>2 l\u017e\u00edce <strong>m\u00e1sla<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>2 l\u017e\u00edce <strong>s\u00e1dla<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>1 <strong>jablko<\/strong> (nemus\u00ed b\u00fdt)<\/li>\n<li>1 l\u017e\u00edce plnotu\u010dn\u00e9 <strong>ho\u0159\u010dice<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>50 ml <strong>octa<\/strong> (asi 5 l\u017eic)<\/li>\n<li>5 l\u017eic <strong>cukru<\/strong> krupice<\/li>\n<li><strong>citronov\u00e1 \u0161\u0165\u00e1va<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>l\u017e\u00edce <strong>mouky<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong>s\u016fl<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Ve velk\u00e9m kastrolu nebo hlub\u0161\u00ed p\u00e1nvi rozp\u00e1l\u00edme s\u00e1dlo a po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b v n\u011bm ope\u010deme osolen\u00e9 a opep\u0159en\u00e9 maso ze v\u0161ech stran. Po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b, jako steak, pot\u0159ebujeme z n\u011bj <a href=\"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/kucharka\/2018\/01\/26\/kouzlo-pana-maillarda\/\">dostat maximum chuti<\/a>. Pak ho d\u00e1me stranou, p\u0159id\u00e1me m\u00e1slo a ko\u0159enovou zeleninu. Orestujeme ji za ob\u010dasn\u00e9ho m\u00edch\u00e1n\u00ed do zlatova a teprve pak p\u0159id\u00e1me nadrobno nakr\u00e1jenou\u00a0cibuli a d\u00e1l spole\u010dn\u011b restujeme. Cibule mus\u00ed aspo\u0148 zesklovat\u011bt, l\u00e9pe kdy\u017e i trochu zhn\u011bdne (nepot\u0159ebujeme ale \u00fapln\u011b tmavou cibulku jako na gul\u00e1\u0161). Pokud by se to za\u010dalo p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 p\u00e1lit, m\u016f\u017eeme podl\u00edt trochou vody, kter\u00e1 to ochlad\u00ed a kdy\u017e se vyva\u0159\u00ed, v\u0161e se restuje d\u00e1l.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-257 aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova3-640x427.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova3-640x427.jpg 640w, https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova3-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/svickova3.jpg 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Pokud chceme, m\u016f\u017eeme te\u010f do z\u00e1kladu p\u0159idat na kosti\u010dky nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 jablko, kter\u00e9 osv\u011b\u017e\u00ed chu\u0165, a nechat ho trochu zkaramelizovat. Pak p\u0159id\u00e1me cukr, l\u017e\u00edci ho\u0159\u010dice a p\u0159ilijeme ocet. Pozor, p\u011bkn\u011b to zasmr\u00e1dne, je dobr\u00e9 p\u0159ed t\u00edm otev\u0159\u00edt okno nebo pustit odsava\u010d na plno. Ocet nech\u00e1me odpa\u0159it a u\u017e to bude zase dobr\u00e9. Pak do z\u00e1kladu vlo\u017e\u00edme\u00a0 maso, s\u00e1\u010dek\/s\u00edtko s ko\u0159en\u00edm a\u00a0podlijeme v\u00fdvarem, aby maso bylo skoro cel\u00e9 pono\u0159en\u00e9. P\u0159ivedeme k varu, p\u0159iklop\u00edme poklic\u00ed, st\u00e1hneme plotnu na minimum a nech\u00e1me pomali\u010dku dusit, dokud maso nezm\u011bkne, co\u017e obvykle trv\u00e1 tak 2,5 hodiny. Dusit m\u016f\u017eeme i v troub\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>Kdy\u017e je maso m\u011bkk\u00e9, d\u00e1me ho stranou do tepla, vyhod\u00edme ko\u0159en\u00ed a postupujeme stejn\u011b jako v p\u0159edchoz\u00ed variant\u011b. Akor\u00e1t u\u017e m\u00e1me zeleninu i s v\u00fdvarem pohromad\u011b, tak\u017ee bu\u010fto je rovnou rozmixujeme a zalejeme t\u00edm j\u00ed\u0161ku, nebo zeleninu nejprve sced\u00edme, z tekutiny ud\u011bl\u00e1me z\u00e1kladn\u00ed\u00a0<em>velout\u00e9<\/em> a pak teprve rozmixujeme se zbylou zeleninou. Prova\u0159it, dochutit, p\u0159idat smetanu, p\u0159\u00edp. m\u00e1slo (viz v\u00fd\u0161e).<\/p>\n<h2>Sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 sous-vide<\/h2>\n<p>Tenhle postup je nejnov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, vy\u017eaduje speci\u00e1ln\u00ed vybaven\u00ed a hodn\u011b (pasivn\u00edho) \u010dasu, ale zase n\u00e1m vyrob\u00ed ke sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 v\u016fbec nejlep\u0161\u00ed maso. <a href=\"http:\/\/stanicek.com\/kucharka\/2016\/07\/04\/sous-vide\/\">Technice sous-vide<\/a> se v\u011bnuji v samostatn\u00e9m \u010dl\u00e1nku.<\/p>\n<p>Postup se podob\u00e1 tomu p\u0159edchoz\u00edmu, s t\u00edm rozd\u00edlem, \u017ee maso ned\u00e1me dusit do z\u00e1kladu, ale p\u0159ipravujeme ho samostatn\u011b. I zde je dobr\u00e9 maso p\u0159edem nalo\u017eit do zeleniny, ale m\u00e1me zde v\u00fdhodu, \u017ee pokud n\u00e1m to \u010dasov\u011b nevyjde, m\u016f\u017eeme trochu ko\u0159enov\u00e9 zeleniny je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159idat do s\u00e1\u010dku k masu a nechat ji p\u016fsobit b\u011bhem pomal\u00e9ho va\u0159en\u00ed. Maso osol\u00edme, opep\u0159\u00edme a vlo\u017e\u00edme do s\u00e1\u010dku, ve kter\u00e9m se bude va\u0159it. P\u0159id\u00e1me nav\u00edc bobkov\u00fd list (cca jeden na p\u016fl kg masa), a je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r kuli\u010dek nov\u00e9ho ko\u0159en\u00ed a pep\u0159e, p\u0159\u00edp. i tymi\u00e1n a rozmar\u00fdn. Odstran\u00edme ze s\u00e1\u010dku vzduch, vlo\u017e\u00edme do vodn\u00ed l\u00e1zn\u011b a va\u0159\u00edme na 58\u201359 \u00b0C po dobu nejm\u00e9n\u011b 6\u20138 hodin. V p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b tu\u017e\u0161\u00edho masa, jako je nap\u0159. hov\u011bz\u00ed v\u00e1le\u010dek z k\u00fdty, je doba va\u0159en\u00ed a\u017e 24 hodin. Ale \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed se vyplat\u00ed, z\u00edsk\u00e1me k\u0159ehk\u00e9 a \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9 r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9 maso, kter\u00e9 jinou cestou snad v\u016fbec nelze p\u0159ipravit \u2013 a to i z jinak tuh\u00fdch a k du\u0161en\u00ed nebo pe\u010den\u00ed nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 vhodn\u00fdch kus\u016f masa.<\/p>\n<p>Pokud chceme sv\u00ed\u010dkovou na ve\u010de\u0159i, ide\u00e1ln\u00ed harmonogram je p\u0159edchoz\u00ed den nalo\u017eit maso do zeleniny, druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no ho d\u00e1t va\u0159it a nave\u010der dokon\u010dit spole\u010dn\u011b s om\u00e1\u010dkou. Pokud to m\u00e1 b\u00fdt k ob\u011bdu, m\u016f\u017ee se maso t\u00e1hnout p\u0159es noc. Pokud ho nech\u00e1me va\u0159it o p\u00e1r hodin d\u00e9le, v\u016fbec nic se nestane.<\/p>\n<p>M\u00e1me-li maso zavakuovan\u00e9, m\u016f\u017eeme si ho p\u0159ipravit i dlouho p\u0159edem. Po uva\u0159en\u00ed ho nech\u00e1me nerozbalen\u00e9 vystydnout a nech\u00e1me zmrazit. P\u0159ed pou\u017eit\u00edm sta\u010d\u00ed zmrzl\u00fd bal\u00ed\u010dek rovnou vlo\u017eit do l\u00e1zn\u011b o stejn\u00e9 teplot\u011b, v jak\u00e9 jsme ho va\u0159ili, na hodinu a\u017e dv\u011b, aby rozmrzlo a cel\u00e9 se proh\u0159\u00e1lo na po\u017eadovanou teplotu.<\/p>\n<p>Asi tak hodinu a p\u016fl p\u0159ed pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm m\u016f\u017eeme za\u010d\u00edt va\u0159it om\u00e1\u010dku \u2013 \u00fapln\u011b stejn\u011b jako v p\u0159edchoz\u00edm kroku. D\u016fkladn\u011b orestujeme zeleninu, pak p\u0159id\u00e1me cibuli, pak p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b jablko, ho\u0159\u010dici, cukr, ocet, odva\u0159\u00edme, p\u0159id\u00e1me ko\u0159en\u00ed, zalijeme v\u00fdvarem a nech\u00e1me asi 45\u201360 minut va\u0159it. A dokon\u010d\u00edme stejn\u011b jako v p\u0159edchoz\u00ed variant\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>Maso vynd\u00e1me z l\u00e1zn\u011b, obereme z n\u011bj v\u0161echno ko\u0159en\u00ed a p\u0159\u00edp. zeleninu (pokud je je\u0161t\u011b \u010das, m\u016f\u017eeme ji p\u0159idat k z\u00e1kladu om\u00e1\u010dky) a \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu, kterou maso pustilo, p\u0159ilijeme do om\u00e1\u010dky. Pokud hned nepod\u00e1v\u00e1me, maso vr\u00e1t\u00edme do s\u00e1\u010dku a nech\u00e1me ve vodn\u00ed l\u00e1zni, aby z\u016fstalo tepl\u00e9. Stejn\u011b tak ve vodn\u00ed l\u00e1zni oh\u0159\u00edv\u00e1me maso, kdy\u017e ho chceme pod\u00e1vat i druh\u00fd den. <strong>Jak\u00fdkoli jin\u00fd zp\u016fsob oh\u0159\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed maso va\u0159en\u00e9 sous-vide zni\u010d\u00ed<\/strong> a v\u0161echna pr\u00e1ce by p\u0159i\u0161la vnive\u010d.<\/p>\n<p>Tohle maso je kr\u00e1sn\u011b r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9, \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9, m\u011bkou\u010dk\u00e9 a pln\u00e9 chuti. D\u00e1 se nakr\u00e1jet na tenou\u010dk\u00e9 pl\u00e1te\u010dky jako rostb\u00edf, co\u017e mu taky ve sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 nejv\u00edc slu\u0161\u00ed: rad\u011bji ne\u017e jeden dva siln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pl\u00e1tky masa jako obvykle, dejte na tal\u00ed\u0159 na\u010dechranou hrom\u00e1dku tence nakr\u00e1jen\u00fdch pl\u00e1tk\u016f. P\u0159id\u00e1te sv\u00e9 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00fd chu\u0165ov\u00fd rozm\u011br.<\/p>\n<h2>Pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed<\/h2>\n<p>Standardem je jako p\u0159\u00edloha houskov\u00fd knedl\u00edk, j\u00e1 d\u00e1v\u00e1m p\u0159ednost <a href=\"http:\/\/karlovarsky-knedlik\" data-wplink-url-error=\"true\">karlovarsk\u00e9mu<\/a>. Ale n\u011bkdo ned\u00e1 dopustit na bramborov\u00e9 knedl\u00edky, na v\u0161elijak\u00e9 noky, n\u011bkdo r\u00e1d ke sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 t\u011bstoviny ba i brambory, vid\u011bl jsem ji u\u017e i s polentou i kuskusem\u2026 Popravd\u011b, myslel jsem si dlouho, \u017ee zrovna u sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 je ten houskov\u00fd\/karlovarsk\u00fd knedl\u00edk nenahraditeln\u00fd, ale pak jsem ochutnal i jin\u00e9 mo\u017enosti a p\u0159estal jsem si b\u00fdt jist\u00fd. A zcela up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b, s bramborov\u00fdmi\u00a0<em>gnocchi<\/em> mi nakonec chutnala asi v\u016fbec nejv\u00edc. Tak\u017ee jak kdo chce, nic nen\u00ed dogma a fantazii se meze nekladou.<\/p>\n<p>Tradi\u010dn\u011b pat\u0159\u00ed k masu ve sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 i brusinky, m\u011bly by b\u00fdt nakysl\u00e9 a p\u011bkn\u011b pikantn\u00ed. Ale to je asi v\u0161echno. Ani dal\u0161\u00ed \u0161leha\u010dka ani citron (v\u010detn\u011b slupky, brrr) u\u017e na tal\u00ed\u0159i nemaj\u00ed co d\u011blat. T\u00edm proslaven\u00fdm \u201eter\u010dem\u201d se jen kucha\u0159i sna\u017e\u00ed dohnat, co se jim nepovedlo v kuchyni. Dobr\u00e1 sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd dal\u0161\u00ed citron ani smetanu (nedejbo\u017ee rostlinnou \u0161leha\u010dku ve spreji!) nepot\u0159ebuje.<\/p>\n<p>Vypad\u00e1 to komplikovan\u011b, ale ono nakonec nen\u00ed. Kdy\u017e dodr\u017e\u00edte to hlavn\u00ed, o\u010d ve sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 jde \u2013 dob\u0159e ope\u010den\u00e9 maso a ko\u0159enov\u00e1 zelenina, v\u00fdrazn\u00e9 pikantn\u00ed dochucen\u00ed a ne\u0161et\u0159it na v\u00fdvaru a smetan\u011b \u2013 a zpracujete to u\u017e jakkoli, v\u00fdsledek bude ur\u010dit\u011b skv\u011bl\u00fd.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Tip na z\u00e1v\u011br<\/strong> (\u00fapln\u011b stejn\u00fd jako u d\u00fd\u0148ov\u00e9ho kr\u00e9mu).\u00a0Skv\u011bl\u00e1 varianta pro du\u0161enou verzi je\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.kucharkaprodceru.cz\/kremova-polevka\/\">tip od Florent\u00fdny<\/a>: m\u00edsto p\u0159id\u00e1n\u00ed smetany na z\u00e1v\u011br se p\u0159id\u00e1 (tu\u010dn\u00e1!) smetana \u00fapln\u011b na za\u010d\u00e1tku a va\u0159\u00ed se spolu s masem a zeleninou. Nakonec se p\u0159i rozmixov\u00e1n\u00ed na\u0161leh\u00e1 a kr\u00e9m sou\u010dasn\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u011b zahust\u00ed a nad\u00fdch\u00e1.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sv\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 je u n\u00e1s doma na \u0161pici nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00edch j\u00eddel. Dokonce vyhr\u00e1la i sout\u011b\u017e o novou verzi na\u0161\u00ed \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159e \u2013 \u010dasem jsme si ujasnili, \u017ee o kapra a bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t nikdo moc nestoj\u00edme, tak jsme zavedli jako novou tradici v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed sv\u00ed\u010dkovou a jsme spokojeni v\u0161ichni. Ono to ve skute\u010dnosti zas tak slo\u017eit\u00e9 j\u00eddlo nen\u00ed, ale [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":255,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[10,14,18,22,24,27,43],"class_list":["post-253","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hlavni-chody","tag-ceska","tag-duseni","tag-hovezi","tag-maso","tag-omacka","tag-peceni","tag-zelenina"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/253","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=253"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/253\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":504,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/253\/revisions\/504"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/255"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=253"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=253"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pixy.cz\/kucharka\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=253"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}